The Indonesian Rock Climbing Federation (FPTI) is preparing to hold a national training camp (Pelatnas), which plans to be placed at the Jakarta International Climbing Wall Park, Cakung, East Jakarta. In addition to gathering athletes, FPTI will also create another climbing path, by bringing in experts from abroad.
According to FPTI Pelatnas Manager Hendricus Mutter, the majority of rock climbing athletes such as Aries Susanti, Aspar Jailolo and other senior athletes have docked in Jakarta. According to him, this time Pelatnas will be focused on chasing tickets to qualify for the 2021 Tokyo Olympics, the qualifications of which will be included in the Asian Championships in China in early December 2020.
It’s just that FPTI is also being realistic, because Aries Susanti and her colleagues, always have difficulty when competing in a combination of speed, lead and boulder.
“If you can get away good, but if not, you have to fight again for the next Olympics,” Hendricus said, as quoted by Tempo.co.
In order to catch up on the lead and boulder numbers, FPTI’s plan will be to create new climbing routes, by bringing in track makers from abroad.
Hendricus said, a track maker with experience in making a track for a world championship would certainly be able to help athlete adaptation be faster. The reason FPTI brought in lane makers from abroad, because until now, in Indonesia there are still very few lane makers with official certificates of international level, so that Indonesian athletes ultimately, do not master the lane, when they have to compete in international championships.
“If we make it a habit to make a path in the world championship, we will master the tricks more,” he said.
The inequality of the Indonesian Team climbing athlete’s inequality in the combination number is still very apparent in the results at the 2019 IFSC Combined Qualifier in Toulouse France, last November. Where, two national team mainstay athletes namely Aries Susanti and Alfian M Fajri, must be desperate to qualify for the Olympics earlier, after failing to penetrate the top six, as a minimum requirement to qualify for the Tokyo Olympics at the championship.
In the championship, a number of lead (rock climbing with belayer), speed (race), and boulder (rock climbing without rope safety) are contested. Which in that number, Aries Susanti was only able to rank 16th, whereas Alfian was only ranked 13th.